Tuesday 26 February 2013

"WE SAW YOUR BOOBS" SETH MACFARLANE'S OSCAR BOOB

On Sunday evening as most of us this side of the Atlantic slept with little thought to the Oscars, the 85th Academy Awards was taking place. In a theatre full of designer clad, booze laden and Botox filled stars, this year's host Seth MacFarlane performed an opening musical number that has caused uproar and divided opinion. Accompanied by the Gay Man's Chorus of Los Angeles and a troupe of male dancers, for many MacFarlane's song embodied an all male comical onslaught on a list of Hollywood's leading ladies, whom didn't seem to see the funny side(boob). But what did we expect from the Family Guy creator? The song was very much in keeping with his usual canon, designed to laugh in the face of its audience, so was he not just delivering the goods? Perhaps MacFarlane's gag was not an attack based on the actors' sex but rather their pomposity, simply the pretensions of artistic nuances, of being "naked" and "nude".  Can Hollywood simply not take a joke? 

I personally have no issue with nudity especially in relation to my own body as much of the world knows and has witnessed for itself. Nudity for me is a symptom of feeling comfortable with my body, freedom and almost too frequently a source of comedy. But it is also very much something I must narrate the discourse of. However inflected my agency over my own body is I must retain the feeling that it is mine and noone else's. Perhaps the most problematic thing with "We Saw Your Boobs" is not the joke itself but who is making it. If we strip the joke back to its bare bones, MacFarlane's opening song resembles a cheap attack on women that have strived to achieve in film by those who continue to dominate it.  The host immediately set up an uncomfortable dynamic for the ceremony that was described by writer (and Family Guy fan) Margaret Lyons as not, "an awards ceremony so much as a black-tie celebration of the straight white male gaze". Arguably in a ceremony in which 77 percent of Academy voters are male and most females in the industry bypassed, with 30 of this year's honours awarded to men and just 9 to women, equality between the sexes has not come far enough to accommodate this kind of alienating sexist humiliation. 

The choice of popular comedian Seth MacFarlane to host this year's ceremony is all part of the Academy's move towards attaining a younger audience and came with obvious risks. This is a gamble that despite the immediate outcry against MacFarlane, has seemingly paid off. The 2013 Oscars were the most watch for 3 years and pulled in an audience of 40.3 million. However is this relative "modernisation" at the cost of women of all ages? Whilst there was a distinct focus on the younger generation this year, it would appear this was to the detriment of the female constituents of the film industry. Not only did women fail to gain substantial recognition in the honours but they were relentlessly the butt of MacFarlane's jokes (with varied success). Interestingly, perhaps the best reaction the host received was from Best Actress Winner, Jennifer Lawrence who celebrated her mention as an actress who hadn't revealed her body. But this only serves to highlight the negative representation of women asserted by MacFarlane. 

We may boo and hiss but MacFarlane is no amateur, in his performance he was acutely aware of his own brashness and its effect on the gathered glitterati. However, as Tim Robey of the Telegraph pointed out, "The problem is, MacFarlane's mere awareness of his obvious horribleness as a presenter was no inoculation against it." Did we learn nothing from Ricky Gervais' obnoxious Golden Globe run? Apparently not. Tina Fey and Amy Poehler struck gold as hosts of the Golden Globes this year without a cheap shot in sight, balancing satire and controversy seemlessly. Performances like theirs are worth revisiting to remind ourselves that those like Macfarlane's are unnecessary, outdated and ultimately unsuccessful.
This whole debate reminded me of a recent episode of The Graham Norton Show in which Shame actor Michael Fassbender was teased by Graham and the other male and female guests for the excessive exposure of his own endowment in the film. Does this demonstrate the hypocrisy inhernet to this kind of issue, the double standards that are at work in the film and television industry? Unfortunatley there is a long way to go in negotiating equality even in the Arts and jokes in the vain of Seth MacFarlane's ultimately reaffirm the representation of the female body as a man's domaine- simulatenously celebrated, condemned and mocked. 
Charlize Theron's reaction to her mention in the song.
Jennifer Lawrence conserves her "dignity".
MacFarlane's Oscar Boob(s)
LOL they didn't see our boobs

Tuesday 19 February 2013

AW13 (Already)

Over the last month I have been on various working vacations which involved unfortunate evenings spent in Travelodges, Premier and Holiday Inns, as well as an unwelcome diversion from my career path and a painful reminder of just why I must stick to it. During this vacation from my career and on the subject of it, I was described by a friend as "a part-time intern" - Haa! Part-time, freelance, free falling...whatever. I am no longer interning for powerhouse-super female-beau ideal-Fashion Editor at Large Melanie Rickey or anyone else for that matter. So as London Fashion Week approached I thought it high time for me to bust my own chops and get the low down for AW13. Today marks the end of lfw and after my baptism of fire into the SS13 shows, this time around I found myself very much on the periphery of the action, attuned to but only occasionally seduced by the tweets of the fashion frow. Over the last week the fashion pack have descended on Somerset House (this year via the Topshop show space at the Tate Modern) and as much as I enjoy my vicarious internet existence there ain't nothing like seeing it in the flesh so off I went to join the Somerset circus. But before braving Somerset House I was faced with my ongoing internal fashion conflict. I have a love-hate relationship with fashion, I tend to view it in binaries constructed in the bi-polar melting pot of my mind. For me fashion is both empowering and crippling, simultaneously an art form and trite, a rich part of culture but also superfluous. I enjoy fashion in the context of it shaping and reflecting society and culture and in the context of my own wardrobe to a point but there is a large portion of it (and people) that I would rather not connect with at all. That said battle face on. Here's the good, the bad and the ugly (naturally not mutually exclusive) from London Fashion Week...

+ London and New York set two very different tones for AW13 office wear:
At Somerset House BFC concierges got a Jonathan Saunders makeover...
(Image via @Topshop)
Whereas in New York less was more in the scorching Marc Jacobs office...
(Image from Style.com)
+ Cara Delevingne the most hard working model this season - a girls gotta eat..?  
(Image via Love Magazine) 
The latest silver-spooned Bedales export, "model of the year" Cara Delevingne is taking over the world. The Vogue cover girl has appeared in just about every show so far this fashion month and she isn't about to put the brakes on anytime soon. In between sporting the pioneering model cam at the Topshop Unique show (because we all need to see the show through her eyes obviously), partying with Rihanna and dating Jake Bugg, the 20 year old also has her sights set on a move into acting. There will be no hiding from Cara Delevingne in 2013. The "kooky" self described "professional human being" (vom) made her acting debut in the 2012 adaptation of Tolstoy's Anna Karenina and is anything but shy in front of a film crew. The evidence speaks for itself. . .

+ GOOGLE PLUS
Fashion is set to change forever and enter a new entirely interactive age. We are now able to live-stream around 70% of shows from the comfort of our own laptops and without a moments anguish about   the trends we may or may not be working underneath the duvet. Last season Topshop Unique transformed the way we watched fashion shows and this time around Google has played an unprecedented role in fashion week. The creatives at Google teamed up with Topshop Unique to create a home for all the amazing internet possibilities of fashion week to be curated in one place. Google Plus is the social media strain of the company and resembles a combination of all the leading social media sites. This lfw you were able to follow your favourite models (Cara obviously), collect your favourite visuals, "be the buyer", follow model cam down the catwalk and much more. On Friday afternoon Melanie Rickey hosted a global Google Plus Hangout at Topshop HQ allowing the international fashion community to be at the centre of the action in London and demonstrating the way the internet can be positively involved in the evolution of the fashion industry. Great for those whose show tickets were tragically "lost in the post", gaaah the Royal Mail.

+ Fashion Vs. Celebrity
There was a strict divide in the fashion community on Saturday night those seduced my saucetress Rhianna and those more interested in emerging fashion talent Thomas Tait. It seems the fashion crowd might have seen it all before (on instagram) Rhi Rhi as the media furore caused by the singer's collection for River Island only fuelled more celebration of designer Thomas Tait's collection and her show to be dismissed as a great PR stunt. The young designer's collection was described as by The Cut as, "funky aerobic wear fit for your next trip to Lucille Roberts."
(Thomas Tait AW13)

...Another music star, A$AP ROCKY had some equally great insight into nyfw to contribute...
.
(Vine was also everyone's favourite new video app this season)

+ TRENDS FOR AW13: 
Era: The 90s revival is here to stay but AW13 is all about the 90s for now. As street style becomes evermore prominant and a real part of fashion month the lines between designer and street wear are now entirely blurred and bad news there's DOUBLE DENIM. The Save the Last Dance vibe is now creeping it's way on to front rows with fashed up beanies being sported by 40 something editors and buyers...


(The 90s for now at Unique. Images: The Cut)
Style: "CO-OR"
Christopher Raeburn, Eudon Choi, Zoe Jordan, House of Holland, Thomas Tait, Holly Fulton all featured fully co-ordinated, matchy matchy looks, playing with prints, textures and layering. 

(Zoe Jordan. Image: The Cut)
(House of Holland. Image: The Cut)

Print: CAMO
(Christopher Kane. Image: The Cut)
(Whistles. Image: DisneyRollerGirl)
(Marques' Alemeida. Image: Londonfashionweek.com)

Accessory: THE FASHION STOLE
(Topshop Unique. Image: The Cut)
(Lucas Nascimento. Image: FashionEditoratLarge)
(Christopher Kane. Image: The Cut)

+ MUSIC wise Burberry brought their boy Tom Odell back, this time he performed live with a choir at their show. There was also a live performance from Shystie at the Nasir Mazhar show but in terms of new talent insiders were buzzing about South-East London girl Rainy Milo...
 

+ And finally it's her AGAIN and it seems the Topshop pr team don't miss a trick and we won't be shaking off the 'Harlem Shake' anytime soon..